Part of that is deciding what the car is doing badly and tackling that problem. It's taken me a while to learn a bit about tuning the suspension and I'm just starting to get the hang of it. Not intuitive but he knows his stuff well enough to set it up for the most important corners. The current record at our new hilly CCW track was set using the same setup as our flat CW track. Start with something like the JD setup and go from there. The length of the track and CCW vs CW won't tell you squat about desired toe. I've bent a few things over time and found several that can cause. I don't remember the max in the rear but it was a lot more than I want (I think 4+). ![]() When I run the car low with tires around 2/32 unless something is bent I get get better than 3* in front. Set it up the same for a really rough track and it can get pretty dicey so more height = less camber. If you compare max camber to a setup for a smooth track with few bumps, that car can be setup lower and get more camber. What is a good Toe setting, front and rear on a flat track 1.9 or 2.75 miles around, with mostly right hand turns?Ĭamber is going to depend on several things, ride height being one. How much camber CAN you get on your own car, F and R?Ģ. I'll take it somewhere else-to a shop 90 miles away because they know how to do it right.ġ. I asked what the final settings were, and he said the most camber he could get in front was -1.9 and rear was -2.6. I wanted MORE camber, and toe-out in front and toe-in in rear.Īfter setting the camber front and rear, and the toe front and rear, the shop manager, who was doing the work, disconnected the mirrors and told me they were done. ![]() I entered the shop in my 1999 Spec Miata with -2 degrees front camber and -2.8/2.9 rear camber. In the meantime, I try to find competent alignment shops close to home, to no avail. I need to learn how to set my own alignment, but have spent more time on RH (currently 4 3/8" front, 4 1/2" Rear), CW (50.04%), Cross (3 lbs), and learning to drive.
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